Renting a Car in Hokkaido: Permits, Winter Driving, Costs and Routes

Updated October 2026

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Hokkaido is the one part of Japan where a car really pays off. Distances are long, trains and buses outside Sapporo are infrequent, and many of the best places, like Biei's hills, the Shakotan coast and the Shiretoko Peninsula, are hard to reach without one. Here's what you need to rent legally, how winter driving works, what it costs, and how to book.

Driving permit: IDP or Japanese translation?

Japan is strict about this, and rental counters will turn you away without the right document. There are three ways to drive legally as a visitor:

• An International Driving Permit issued under the 1949 Geneva Convention, carried with your home licence. This applies to licences from the USA, UK, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Singapore and most other countries. Get it at home before you travel, from your national motoring association or other authorised issuer. It's a paper booklet, and it can't be issued in Japan. IDPs issued under other treaties, such as the 1968 Vienna Convention, are not valid in Japan.
• An official Japanese translation of your licence, carried with the original licence. This is only for licences issued in Switzerland, Germany, France, Belgium, Monaco and Taiwan, which have separate agreements with Japan. The Japan Automobile Federation (JAF) issues translations through an online application, and processing usually takes a few business days, so apply before your trip.
• A Japanese driver's licence.

Either way, you can drive for up to one year from your date of entry into Japan, or until your IDP expires if that comes sooner. Bring the physical originals, because photocopies and digital licences aren't accepted. Countries not covered by any of these options (for example, those without a 1949 Geneva IDP) can't drive in Japan on a visitor basis.

Winter driving in Hokkaido

Hokkaido winters are serious. Snow typically lies from November or December to March, often longer inland and in the mountains. Rental companies prepare for it:

• Snow tyres (studless winter tyres) are standard on Hokkaido rentals in the winter season. Nippon Rent-A-Car, for example, fits them at no extra charge for rentals from November 1 to April 20, adds a winter season fee of ¥660 per day (capped at 10 days), and supplies 4WD as standard in Hokkaido. Other companies' rules differ, so check when you book.
• Choose 4WD. Some companies make 4WD standard in Hokkaido during winter. Others charge extra for it, so check when booking. You'll appreciate it on hills and in fresh snow.
• Watch for black ice, especially on bridges, in tunnel exits, at intersections and in early mornings. Drive well below the speed limit, brake early and leave big gaps.
• Whiteouts and road closures happen in blizzards. Check the weather and road information before long drives, and be ready to change plans.
• Days are short. In December it's dark in Sapporo before about 4:30pm. Plan to finish long drives in daylight.

Year-round, watch for deer (especially at dusk in eastern Hokkaido) and note that gas stations can be far apart in rural areas. Fill up at half a tank.

ETC cards and the Hokkaido Expressway Pass

Japanese expressways charge tolls. An ETC card lets you drive through the ETC gates without stopping, and you pay when you return the car. Most rental companies rent ETC cards for about ¥330 per rental, so ask for one when you book.

Foreign visitors (non-Japanese passport holders) can buy the Hokkaido Expressway Pass (HEP) through participating rental companies. It gives unlimited use of Hokkaido's expressways for a fixed number of days.

Prices are from the official Drive Plaza (NEXCO East) site as of October 2026 and exclude the car and ETC card rental. The pass is sold through participating rental companies, so add it when you book the car. There are no 2- or 3-day options. Longer trips need multiple passes. Check the current price.

Is it worth it? If you're driving long expressway stretches, such as New Chitose to Furano and on to Asahikawa, or Sapporo to Hakodate, it often pays off in a few days. If you mostly stay on ordinary roads around one region, you may not need it. Ordinary national roads are toll-free and often scenic.

What a Hokkaido rental costs

Japanese rental prices include the compulsory basic insurance. The optional CDW and NOC cover are what reduce your out-of-pocket cost after an accident or damage, so check exactly what's included before you pay. Your travel insurance is separate. Some policies cover a rental car excess, but many exclude it, so read the policy wording. If you're comparing travel insurance for the trip anyway, EKTA (opens in a new tab) is one option to compare. Check its rental car and winter sports terms before buying.

Aggregators vs booking direct

You can book through an international comparison site or directly with a Japanese rental company such as Toyota Rent a Car, Nippon Rent-A-Car, Times Car Rental, Orix or Nissan. Most of these have English booking sites. Neither option is always better:

• EconomyBookings (opens in a new tab) and QEEQ (opens in a new tab) compare several suppliers at once. That makes it quick to see price ranges for your dates at New Chitose, and you can pay in your own currency. The trade-off is that the cover they sell may be third-party insurance. You would pay the Japanese company first and claim the money back later, rather than having the local CDW or NOC cover applied at the counter.
• GetRentacar (opens in a new tab) lists cars from local rental providers. Its Japan coverage looks thinner than in some other countries, so check there are cars at your exact pick-up point.
• Booking direct with a Japanese company makes it simplest to add their own CDW, NOC cover, the ETC card, snow equipment and the Expressway Pass. It's also usually easier to sort out any problems in person.

Compare the full total either way, including CDW, NOC cover and any winter fee.

Compare New Chitose Airport car rental prices on EconomyBookings (opens in a new tab)

Picking up at New Chitose Airport

Most travellers start at New Chitose Airport (CTS), about 50 km south of Sapporo. The rental desks are in the arrivals areas of both the domestic and international terminals. After you check in at the desk, a free shuttle takes you to the company's lot nearby, usually about 10–15 minutes away. On busy summer and ski-season afternoons, the counters can have long queues, so allow extra time. Have your passport, licence and IDP or translation, and booking confirmation ready. When you return it, refuel nearby and allow time for the shuttle. Japan drives on the left.

Scenic routes by season

• Spring (late April to May): cherry blossoms around Hakodate and Matsumae, with the season arriving later than in the rest of Japan. The Shiretoko Pass (Route 334), closed in winter, usually reopens in late April between towering snow walls.
• Summer (June to August): lavender and flower fields around Furano and Biei, peaking in July. Biei's Patchwork Road, the Blue Pond, the deep-blue sea at Cape Kamui on the Shakotan Peninsula, and the Lake Toya and Noboribetsu loop.
• Autumn (mid September to October): Japan's earliest autumn colours appear in the Daisetsuzan mountains, followed by Jozankei near Sapporo and the lake districts.
• Winter (December to March): Niseko and Furano for skiing, Otaru's snowy canal, and drift ice off Abashiri around February. These are best for experienced winter drivers. Otherwise, use trains or tours. See what to book in advance for a Japan winter trip.

For Google Maps navigation in rural areas you need reliable mobile data. See eSIM vs pocket WiFi.

FAQ

Can I rent a car in Japan with just my home driver's licence?

Only if it was issued in Switzerland, Germany, France, Belgium, Monaco or Taiwan, and even then you need an official Japanese translation as well. Everyone else needs a 1949 Geneva Convention IDP in addition to their licence.

Is it safe to drive in Hokkaido in winter?

Many visitors do it, and the cars are properly equipped. But icy roads, blizzards and short days make it much harder than summer driving. If you have little snow experience, keep drives short and slow, or use trains and buses for long distances.

Do I need the Hokkaido Expressway Pass?

Only if you plan several long expressway drives within a 4–8 day window. For a trip mostly on local roads, paying tolls with a regular ETC card is usually enough.

Bottom line

Sort your IDP or Japanese translation before you leave home, since it can't be fixed at the counter. Book early for summer and ski season. Compare an aggregator with booking direct, including the full insurance cost. Then add an ETC card, and the Expressway Pass if your route is expressway-heavy. In winter, choose 4WD and allow plenty of time.

Related guides

• Japan in winter: 7 things to book in advance
• eSIM vs Pocket WiFi vs SIM card for Japan
• Narita & Haneda Airport to Tokyo
• How much mobile data do you need in Japan?
• Best Japanese snack box gift for the holidays
• Gifts for anime fans shipped from Japan

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